WhiteWolf <rayh<spam>@iol.ie>
2008-06-23 15:45:42 UTC
"Driving westwards from Dublin to the Atlantic, it's no exaggeration to say that
your chances of meeting anyone Irish are slim. In the petrol stations, cafés,
bars and shops you will find Poles, Lithuanians and Brazilians giving you the
cead mile failte. But no Irish".
Read on:
Ireland: how an ageing Celtic Tiger has bitten into those juicy salmon
Our correspondent reports from the West of Ireland in the latest of our series
David Sharrock, Ireland Correspondent
I took a peek at post-Celtic Tiger Ireland last week and it wasn't pretty. I was
in Ballina, where the fly-fishing season is beginning amid gloomy predictions
for the economy.
Everyone is praying for a long dry summer; hardly surprising after last year's
wash-out. Ballina draws rich northern European anglers for one very special
reason: the Ridge Pool.
This 300-yard reach of the River Moy is tourism gold for the west. During the
summer months, when its level drops, every tide brings a shoal of bright bars of
Atlantic silver racing up the estuary into the Ridge Pool. In the best years the
salmon are packed together, jostling for space in the seething, shallow waters.
No wonder they call it the Silver Furlong.
Perhaps it wasn't noticed because of the announcement by Bertie Ahern, the
Taoiseach, that he was retiring, but the Ridgepool Hotel, overlooking the prized
stretch of river, was going out of business too. While Bertie insisted that his
resignation had nothing to do with the ever- louder questions about his
finances, the Ridgepool's demise seemed more enigmatic.
I couldn't get a room with a river view because it was full. In fact it is
booked solid until the end of September. Yet with unseeming haste it was being
sold off and the staff served their notices. Then it emerged that the new owner
was a company that runs direct provision hostels for asylum-seekers on behalf
of the Government. The town's business owners went ballistic, belly-aching at
the machinations of civil servants, far away in Dublin and gamely struggling
with the novelty of Ireland having an immigration problem.
It can still seem dizzying how quickly the Celtic Tiger has transformed the
country. A nation that for centuries was a net exporter of its people suddenly
has full employment.
Ask what it is that sells Ireland to tourists and the answer will include
something about the friendliness of the locals. Driving westwards from Dublin to
the Atlantic, it's no exaggeration to say that your chances of meeting anyone
Irish are slim. In the petrol stations, cafés, bars and shops you will find
Poles, Lithuanians and Brazilians giving you the cead mile failte. But no Irish.
They are almost all in higher-paid skilled work. Which is great news if you're
Irish, but not so wonderful for visitors in search of the elusive craic.
I suppose there is an evolutionary logic (albeit at breakneck pace) to a hotel
becoming home to the less fortunate neighbours of the foreigners who in the past
decade have done the jobs that the Irish themselves no longer want or need. Even
so, the people of Ballina didn't agree: the prospect of immigrants' washing
lines flapping in the faces of anglers was too much.
A mole in the justice ministry got the word out to the Ballina burghers just in
time for them to thwart the Dublin suits. But the hotel remains closed, its
bookings transferred en bloc to a charmless modern barn of a place miles from
the river.
Which means that, so long as the weather is kind in the coming months, Ballina
will reap its golden salmon harvest unhindered, but bridling over unfounded
charges that its reaction to the asylum-seekers' hostel was motivated by racism.
Not hatred of foreigners then, but fears about the impact on a tourism industry
that is turning fragile - a tale that may seem as strange to visitors as the
mystery of where all the Irish have gone.
Source:
http://travel.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/travel/news/article3727375.ece
---------------------------------------------------------------
We have our task, and God knows it is a hard one -- the salvage
of a shipwrecked world. - Lothrop Stoddard
---------------------------------------------------------------
your chances of meeting anyone Irish are slim. In the petrol stations, cafés,
bars and shops you will find Poles, Lithuanians and Brazilians giving you the
cead mile failte. But no Irish".
Read on:
Ireland: how an ageing Celtic Tiger has bitten into those juicy salmon
Our correspondent reports from the West of Ireland in the latest of our series
David Sharrock, Ireland Correspondent
I took a peek at post-Celtic Tiger Ireland last week and it wasn't pretty. I was
in Ballina, where the fly-fishing season is beginning amid gloomy predictions
for the economy.
Everyone is praying for a long dry summer; hardly surprising after last year's
wash-out. Ballina draws rich northern European anglers for one very special
reason: the Ridge Pool.
This 300-yard reach of the River Moy is tourism gold for the west. During the
summer months, when its level drops, every tide brings a shoal of bright bars of
Atlantic silver racing up the estuary into the Ridge Pool. In the best years the
salmon are packed together, jostling for space in the seething, shallow waters.
No wonder they call it the Silver Furlong.
Perhaps it wasn't noticed because of the announcement by Bertie Ahern, the
Taoiseach, that he was retiring, but the Ridgepool Hotel, overlooking the prized
stretch of river, was going out of business too. While Bertie insisted that his
resignation had nothing to do with the ever- louder questions about his
finances, the Ridgepool's demise seemed more enigmatic.
I couldn't get a room with a river view because it was full. In fact it is
booked solid until the end of September. Yet with unseeming haste it was being
sold off and the staff served their notices. Then it emerged that the new owner
was a company that runs direct provision hostels for asylum-seekers on behalf
of the Government. The town's business owners went ballistic, belly-aching at
the machinations of civil servants, far away in Dublin and gamely struggling
with the novelty of Ireland having an immigration problem.
It can still seem dizzying how quickly the Celtic Tiger has transformed the
country. A nation that for centuries was a net exporter of its people suddenly
has full employment.
Ask what it is that sells Ireland to tourists and the answer will include
something about the friendliness of the locals. Driving westwards from Dublin to
the Atlantic, it's no exaggeration to say that your chances of meeting anyone
Irish are slim. In the petrol stations, cafés, bars and shops you will find
Poles, Lithuanians and Brazilians giving you the cead mile failte. But no Irish.
They are almost all in higher-paid skilled work. Which is great news if you're
Irish, but not so wonderful for visitors in search of the elusive craic.
I suppose there is an evolutionary logic (albeit at breakneck pace) to a hotel
becoming home to the less fortunate neighbours of the foreigners who in the past
decade have done the jobs that the Irish themselves no longer want or need. Even
so, the people of Ballina didn't agree: the prospect of immigrants' washing
lines flapping in the faces of anglers was too much.
A mole in the justice ministry got the word out to the Ballina burghers just in
time for them to thwart the Dublin suits. But the hotel remains closed, its
bookings transferred en bloc to a charmless modern barn of a place miles from
the river.
Which means that, so long as the weather is kind in the coming months, Ballina
will reap its golden salmon harvest unhindered, but bridling over unfounded
charges that its reaction to the asylum-seekers' hostel was motivated by racism.
Not hatred of foreigners then, but fears about the impact on a tourism industry
that is turning fragile - a tale that may seem as strange to visitors as the
mystery of where all the Irish have gone.
Source:
http://travel.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/travel/news/article3727375.ece
---------------------------------------------------------------
We have our task, and God knows it is a hard one -- the salvage
of a shipwrecked world. - Lothrop Stoddard
---------------------------------------------------------------